Raceway ATV Pit Pass.

Spring is here ATV Quad users!  Get out the wrenches.

The sun is shining again, and now it isn’t just a cruel joke begging you to go outside and freeze.  Yes folks, spring is here, and next to summer it’s the best time of the year.  So now you’re making your list of things to do around the house, and item number one is getting the quads ready for some trail and mud action.  Yep, the priorities are in order.  But before you throw a leg over your shining steed of steel, aluminum, and plastic, there are some things that need done to get her ready for the season.  Some of these things that we will go over include:

•    Draining/cleaning the fuel system
•    Change the spark plug
•    Clean/replace the air filter
•    Check all of the bolts and nuts for tightness
•    Change the fluids
•    Grease moving parts

Draining/cleaning the fuel system
Note:  When cleaning any component of the fuel system, make sure you do so in a clean, dust-free environment.  This procedure is for a round slide Mikuni style carb, your carb may be different.

First of all, if you enjoyed your ATV regularly throughout the winter, you may be able to skip this step.  It’s your judgment call.  For the rest of us, the first thing we want to do is drain the fuel tank.  To do this, first shut the fuel supply off at the shutoff valve underneath your tank.  Then, disconnect the supply hose from the carburetor and place that end into a suitable drain container and open the shutoff valve.  After that is finished and if you so choose, you can unbolt your tank, put some fresh fuel in, swish it around, and dump it out into your container.  This will remove any sediment that may have accumulated at the bottom of your tank.  At this point it’s time to move onto the carburetor.  Start by disconnecting any other hoses that may be attached to it.  Then loosen the clamp that is attaching the airbox tube to the carb and remove the tube.  Unbolt the carb from the intake and you will now have more access to remove the throttle and choke cables.  To remove the throttle from a round slide carb, you need to unscrew the throttle cap from the top of it.  Pull the entire slide and needle assembly out together.  Spray the assembly down with a carb cleaner of your choice, wrap the assembly with a clean lint-free rag and let it hang.  If your carb is equipped with a manual choke, remove the choke cable and plunger together as one assembly.  Clean it the same way you did the slide, wrap, and let it hang.  Next, remove all of the screws holding the bowl to the carb and take it off.  Clean it thoroughly and place it aside.  Now you can remove the float(s) by taking the pin out that holds the float and needle to the carb.  Once out, you can clean the needle and the fuel passageway.  Remove the pilot jet, main jet, idle screw, and mixture screw for cleaning.  Thoroughly clean the carb body with cleaner and let it dry.  Using compressed air, blow all of the passageways in the carb out.  This will ensure that any foreign bodies are out and not block it up after reassembly.  Lastly, replace the bowl gasket, reassemble the carb and put it back on the machine.  Now would also be a good time to replace the fuel filter.  If your machine doesn’t have one, I recommend getting an inline fuel filter and installing it in the fuel supply line from the tank.

Change the spark plug

Often overlooked even though it is the easiest maintenance item, a spark plug can mean the difference in a good or bad day of riding.  A plug can go at any time, and it is advisable to have a spare on with you on every ride.  Remove the plug wire from the top of the plug and check the condition of the wire and the insulation.  Next, remove the plug and note the condition of it.  You can tell a lot about how your engine is running just by the base ring of the spark plug.  If the ring is tan in color, you’re running where you should.  If the ring is white, you are running lean and should jet higher to allow more fuel into the mixture.  If it is black you are running rich and need to lean it out a little.  Running lean could lead to engine failure.  Take your new plug and gap the electrode to the specification listed in your owner or service manual and reinstall it in the cylinder head.  If you want to be on the safe side, you can put some anti-seize on the threads of the plug to keep it from seizing in the head.

Clean/replace the air filter

The most overlooked part of owning a quad can also be the most detrimental to the health of the engine.  Riding “dirty” not only robs performance, but can also lead to engine failure down the road.  ATV’s need clean air to breathe the same as you and I do.  This is how simple it is.  Open up the airbox and remove the air filter.  If your machine does not have a reusable filter, throw it away and get a new one.  If you do have a reusable filter, clean and oil it as the filter manufacturer recommends.  Done.

Check all of the bolts and nuts for tightness

DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS!  This is a safety issue that is also often overlooked.  Use loctite on any bolts and nuts that you do not have to take off regularly.  This will keep them in place and assure you a safer ride.  Go over all of the nuts and bolts and make sure they are torqued to specs.  If you do not have the torque specs, use your best judgment at how tight they should be.  A good rule of thumb for the hub bolts is to tighten them up while spinning the tire and wheel, and tighten until you start to feel a drag on the wheel.  Then loosen the nut up to the next spot where the cotter pin can go back in.

Change the fluids

Your user manual should tell you how to change the engine oil, final drive oil (if so equipped), and coolant (for liquid cooled engines).  If not, contact your nearest dealer for how to do this as all machines are different.  How often you change these fluids is determined by the amount and type of riding you do.  Follow your manual’s guidelines for how often to do this.  If you ride in mud or water a lot, you will need to do this more often, if not after every mud/water ride.  The last thing you want is water contaminating the lubrication system on your quad.  As a general rule, change your engine oil every six months, and your final drive oil every 1-2 years.  Don’t forget to change the oil filter if it is paper cartridge or spin on type.  If it is the metal mesh strainer type, you can just clean it out and reuse it.

Grease moving parts

Most machines will have grease fittings installed commonly on the steering stem, ball joints, and sometimes the control arms.  But there are other areas, which do not have fittings that will still need greased.  For example, the wheel bearings should get repacked yearly.  Clean the bearings in a parts cleaning solvent and dry them out.  There are two ways you can repack the bearings with grease; pack them in by hand, or using a wheel bearing packer that you can purchase at any auto parts store.  To pack them by hand you will need to keep forcing grease between all of the rollers in the bearing and in the open spaces of the cage.  Don’t forget to clean the old grease out of the hub and bearing races and put a coating of fresh grease in there as well.  Don’t forget to lube the chain if you have one as well with a quality chain lube.

If you love and take care of your quad, it will love and take care of you.  It’s a give and take relationship, and your quad is relying on you to stay in good health.

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